Wood chisel basics
You may not need one often, but when it comes time to carve out a recess for a hinge or strike plate, nothing beats a razor-sharp chisel. Here we’ll show you some basic chiselling techniques and sharpening tips so you’ll be ready for any chiselling task with a woodworking chisel set.
Start with a new sharp 19mm chisel for all-purpose use. Keep your old dull chisel handy for jobs like cutting nails or scraping caulk. Buy one with an impact-resistant plastic handle. You can pound on these with a hammer without damaging them. Good-quality chisels don’t cost much, and if you have a little extra cash, buy three – 12mm, 19mm and 25mm – for a good starter set.
Keep in mind that even brand-new chisels will need sharpening. Put your chisels in a sock or a special canvas roll between uses to protect the cutting edge.
Mortise cuts
Start recesses or mortises by outlining the area with a sharp utility knife or by making a series of shallow chisel cuts perpendicular to the surface. Skip this step and you risk chipping wood outside the mortise. After you’ve carved your outline, remove thin slices by tapping the chisel with a hammer, bevel side down, to carve out the wood inside the perimeter.
Pro tip: Chiselling with the grain can sometimes have disastrous results. If the grain runs deeper into the wood, it’ll direct the chisel too deep. Stop and chisel from the opposite direction if you feel this happening.
Paring cut
Pare thin slices of wood to flatten the bottom of an open recess. Keep the back of the chisel flat on the wood. For easier slicing, pivot the chisel as you cut to move the blade in an arc.
If the recess is open on one side, like a hinge mortise, flatten the bottom by paring off thin slices with the back, unbevelled side of the chisel held flat to the wood. In general, when you’re shaving into a piece of wood, face the bevel down. When you’re flattening a cut and have access from the side, face the bevel up and hold the back of the chisel tight to the surface.
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