For an authentic gaming experience, whether you’re playing Texas Hold ‘Em for toothpicks or Snap with the kids, build this card table.
Made entirely from MDF this lightweight table is designed for a maximum of six players.
Compact and portable the table has a hexagonal top and removable legs so you can flat-pack it for storage.
The hexagon is marked on the tabletop using a compass made from a length of timber that rotates around a centre nail with a pencil at the other end scribing the circle.
As the length of one hexagonal side is equal to the radius of its circle, the set compass spacing used to draw the circle remains the same to mark the length of each side around the circumference.
The tabletop is cut from a half-sheet of 1200 x 1200 x 16mm MDF using a circular saw.
The legs and armrests are also cut from 16mm MDF.
Automotive roof lining is positioned on the table as an underlay then covered with a gaming cloth.
For the armrests, two layers of 10mm foam are secured then covered with vinyl, from upholstery suppliers.
The top layer of foam and the vinyl wrap over the long outside edge of the armrest and are attached under the table base.
Practice cutting and stapling the foam and vinyl on offcuts of timber to master the technique of upholstery before covering the armrests.
Finish the table with timber and brass cup holders as a special feature.
New Guinea Rosewood was used here and clear finished, but more affordable Tasmanian Oak can also be used then stained to achieve the same colour.
For this project we used a handy little 18V 150mm ONE+ Circular Saw from Ryobi.
Connecting it to the new model of workshop vac keeps the fine MDF dust to a minimum.
Set the depth of cut to just lower than the thickness of the material by adjusting the base plate for a fine finishing cut.
Attach the armrests through the underside of the baseboard and the battens to the table base using 32mm x 8g timber screws.
Secure the underlay and foam using spray adhesive and the vinyl with 10mm staples.
Make a compass using an 800mm timber offcut with a 3mm hole at one end and a V pencil notch spaced 600mm from it.
Secure a nail through the hole at the board centre, hold a pencil in the notch and scribe a circle.
Position the nail of the compass anywhere on the circle circumference.
Mark an intersecting point on the circle at the notch, reposition the nail on the mark and repeat the procedure around the circle’s circumference.
Use a straightedge or builder’s square to join two adjacent intersecting points with a straight line, producing one side.
Repeat the process around the circle until the last side meets the first, producing a hexagon.
Use a circular saw with a clamped straightedge guide to cut the hexagon.
The straightedge is offset the same distance as the measurement from the edge of the saw’s base plate to the inside edge of the saw blade.
Cut out the armrests with the saw. Soften the base edges with a router and 3mm roundover cutter.
Attach a layer of 10mm foam with adhesive, trim flush and add another layer with a 50mm overhang on the long edge.
Cut the vinyl to fit with 50mm extra all around.
Start upholstering from a corner at the inside edge, working along the inside and side edges, stretching and stapling every 5mm and 10mm in from the edge.
Use a pair of scissors to trim the excess vinyl about 5mm beyond the staples.
Leave the overhanging foam and vinyl along the outside edge for now as this will be secured later.
Repeat to cover all the armrests.
Apply spray adhesive to the back of the underlay and the tabletop then roll up the underlay.
Starting from one side, unroll it over the table, pressing and smoothing it in place as you go. Trim the excess with a utility knife.
Lay the gaming cloth upside down and apply spray adhesive to the back of the cloth and the table underlay.
Work with a helper to lay the cloth on the table, ensuring it has slight tension and is smooth with no air pockets.
Mark the cup holder positions and attach a 16mm strip of foam to the exposed edge with adhesive then cover with vinyl.
Secure the armrests from underneath the table with screws then staple the excess vinyl in place.
Round over the cup holder edges then draw diagonal lines to locate the centres.
Mark a 94mm circle, drill a 10mm starter hole then cut out with a jigsaw.
Secure to the table with screws then cut a hole through the table.
Cut a 370 x 16mm slot in the centre of the legs parallel to the 730mm sides with a jigsaw then check the half-lap fit.
Secure the battens to the table base with screws then slot the legs into position.
This diagram breaks down each element of the poker table and provides measurements in mm.
Use the diagram as a guide while building.
This diagram breaks down each element of the poker table's legs and provides measurements in mm. Use the diagram as a guide while building.
The cutting list breaks down the materials you need for the job, providing you with information about what size the material needs to be and how many pieces you will need. Use this as your shopping list.